Latest News
- February 2009. 2009 Vintage - The Real Story So Far……..
- November 2008. Release of 2008 Rough Cuttings Newsletter
- October 2008. …...and here's to you Mrs Robinson
- September 2008. Gemtree Stars 5 times in Halliday's New Wine Companion
- August 2008. What is Biodynamics?
- 2008. The Closure Debate cont. - The Mike Brown Trials
Excellent growing conditions during winter and spring saw us in tremendous shape heading into 2009 season. 2 inches of magnificent rain in November gave the vines a much need burst that refilled the root zone with enough energy for the summer months. Estimate vintage kick off date was 2nd to 3rd week of February.
Then the unthinkable occurred. A 10 day hot spell that saw excessive temperatures, one day topped 46 degrees. The vines struggled through these conditions with some fruit being badly burnt and vineyards without adequate water and/or canopies collapsed from the heat.
What was the effect of the heat? The vineyards essentially were 'frozen' in time. When temperatures reach these extremes the vines shut down, colour and sugar accumulation ceases as the vines don't function or metabolise. So, the vineyards that had sufficient water and canopy have come through extremely well. Those vineyards that had exposed fruit have been badly affected and across the region we have seen a reduction in yields of up to 30%.
As of today's (Wed 11th February) inspections I can confirm that we are back on target. Due to the mild conditions we have experienced in the last week sugar and colour accumulation have recommenced and the flavours are coming on beautifully.
I have picked tempranillo and 2 blocks of shiraz that look stunning and we are looking forward to a normal vintage from here on. Most shiraz will be harvested from the 3rd week of February, which is what we predicted pre the heat.
Like any season 2009 has presented its challenges but those growers/winemakers who are committed to the quality game will be rewarded with outstanding wines.
Gemtree's annual newsletter has just been released. It's an 8 page epic which keeps our customers worldwide informed of what we're up to, both here in McLaren Vale and on the road around the globe.
We also include our pre Christmas order form with special offers for our Australian 1851 Club members.
To view Rough Cuttings - download it from the website under News & Events/Newsletter or contact us directly if you would like a hard copy forwarded to you.
Wine writer Max Allen recently conducted a seminar in London on one of his favourite topics - alternative varieties in Australia. Wine guru Jancis Robinson attended the tasting and listed Gemtree's Moonstone Albarino as one of her Top 5 "most Impressive wines" of the tasting.
Gemtree has been awarded 5 stars by James Halliday in the recent release of his 2009 Australian Wine Companion. We have also been named, as one of only 10 wineries in Australia, a Dark Horse! What does this mean? … "A highly subjective selection of ten wineries who have excelled over the past 12 months … and who do have that little bit extra". We'll take it. Scores for each wine listed under the Awards page.
What is Biodynamics?
In 1924 a group of concerned European farmers approached a fellow called Rudolph Steiner about the declining health of their farms even though they were applying fertilizers. Steiner responded to these concerns with a series of lectures on Agriculture which form the basis of biodynamic principles.
Biodynamics is about soil fertility and the recognition of a relationship between plant growth and the rhythm of the cosmos. It provides an opportunity for farmers to regain the role and function as providers for and caretakers of health and the welfare of the community as well as the environment.
If biodynamics is about soil fertility then soil fertility is about humus. Microbes are the bridge between the soil and the plant. When microbes, particularly fungi, are given the chance to completely digest organic matter, humus is formed. The humus colloid will hold both positive and negative nutrients preventing their loss via leaching. Humus holds up to 90% of its weight in water. Humus is the foundation for good soil structure.
Animal manures are combined with plant materials and essential mineral elements (rock dusts or seaweeds) and the biodynamic preparations. These are applied in the form of well made composts, in which the organic materials have been converted into stable humus through a fermentation process.
I am often asked what the difference is between organic and biodynamic. The simplest answer is that organic is what you don't do (ie. the removal of herbicides and harsh fungicides) and biodynamics is an extension of that with the added inputs of the biodynamic preparations.
As a family company with a future generation to think about our business must be sustainable and because we farm the land our farming practices must be sustainable. Biodynamics is not only about having a softer impact on the environment than conventional practices but is ensuring that what we are doing is improving upon what we already have, not denigrating it.
From a personal perspective, I choose to eat organic fruit and vegetables because I think they have a better impact on the environment than chemically farmed produce and I am minimising my family's toxic load. Not only that, biodynamic and organic produce tastes better. So if the grapes have more flavour, then surely we will make better wine!
Melissa Brown 2008
Why Use it in the Winery?
After attending a conference in 2006 where biodynamic wines were shown I was immediately convinced we needed to convert our vineyards across to biodynamics.
I have always believed in minimalistic applications when it comes to winemaking. I have been trialing wild yeasts, leaving wines on gross lees for aging and adding lees to wines all to increase the mouthfeel and complexity of our wines. All with good results but after tasting the Biodynamic (BD) wines in 2006 I realized that what we needed to embrace was BD farming in the vineyards and consequently the wines that I make will exhibit the characteristics I have been searching for.
In the winery I take a 'hands off' approach!
Picking the grapes and getting them to the crusher/press/fermenter is the most arduous part of the process. No inoculation of the wines for alcoholic or malo-lactic fermentation occurs; alternatively I allow the natural yeasts to ferment away until the wines are deemed dry. From here it's all about time.
Leaving the wines on their natural solids or ferment lees is a practice that in Australia we are not encouraged to do! WHY? In conventional viticulture the vines are sprayed with chemicals that will leave residues on the grapes that in turn will inhibit the natural fermentation process. As a consequence we want to rack the wines off their lees quickly as the lees are unhealthy and produce off characters in the wines.
By farming bio-dynamically the application of harmful chemical sprays on the vines are reduced so the natural process of fermentation proceeds uninhibited and the lees are healthy, which increases the character of the wines.
We implemented the BD principles 2 years ago and from the results I have witnessed in a short time frame we are in for an amazing period of quality produce for decades to come at Gemtree.
Biodynamics creates a healthy soil which grows a balanced vine that makes complex wine.
Mike Brown 2008
In 2007 we undertook a screw cap vs. natural cork trial with our 2 super premium wines - 2004 Obsidian shiraz and 2004 White Lees shiraz. We sourced a small batch of top end natural corks from a small Spanish producer that we felt had the highest quality in the market place at the time of trialling. Both sets of wines were tasted 6 months after bottling under controlled conditions.
2004 Obsidian
Screw Cap - the first signs that the wine is beginning to evolve. Still a pup but closure is holding all primary and secondary fruit spectrum. Palate is rich and powerful with lovely acid and tannin retention. At this stage I am still confident this vintage will cellar for 15+ years.
Cork - slightly dusty note, blows after 20minutes in glass. The wine is already showing signs of more secondary characters (leather and spice). Tannins beginning to soften, wine perhaps is not showing the completeness of the screw cap samples. This can be taken as natural evolution of the wine…..my opinion is the evolution is happening too quickly and it disappoints me when I see characters/flavours of the cork in the wine.
2004 White Lees
From the 3rd week post bottling these wines were chalk and cheese. I am convinced with this wine, the screw cap is a far superior product. The aromatics and flavour profile were far more intense and as with Obsidian the back palate balance prevailed with the screw cap closure.
Summary
From the trials that we conducted in 2004 and with the recent vertical tasting I undertook with Obsidian, I am convinced that the screw cap is the more reliable and superior closure. Based on these results we have made the decision to bottle the entire 2005 Obsidian production under screw cap, as my confidence grows every time we compare wines under both closures. I still argue emphatically that for longevity of our products, screw cap is definitely the way to go.
Mike Brown
Winemaker
